Our Varanasi trip. A visit to a handloom textile outlet.


It was given that we went sari shopping first! We had some time to spare before the evening boat ride along the banks of Ganga Maa and the Aaarthi. Our guide took us to a well stocked outlet closeby. The owner was a suave and a friendly salesman. As we enjoyed a good cup of chai, we learnt that he was the third generation of their well known family business.

He showed us a clip of  his interview on cable tv and added that his master weaver was an award winner. Making a sari is a long process. Conceiving the design, making a drawing and the process template for the weaver to follow. Spinning the yarn is another story! 

We learnt that his weavers worked nearby. As we wanted to see their workshop, the owner deputed a person to go along with us. It was fascinating for me as I had walked thru a huge textile factory. It was a part of my learning process. My job was to manage the assembly of a draw frame, a textile machine, for an associate company while working for  Mahindra and Mahindra in Pune.                                               


 A skilled worker is always happy to demonstrate his skills 

As we waited for the show!
Tara liked the sari and is checking it out

Trying out the one she bought. 
The expensive sari in front looks gorgeous and it took months to make it.

The walk to see their workshops was an eyeopener!

It was less than a km from the outlet. 

The design and drawings are made in this shop. 

Turned into small gully 

Typical network of wires

His smile is endearing!


He operates the Power loom 
He ran to start another  powerloom for us to see.
The clatter was enormous
!

The draw frame I  was involved with is very sophisticated!



A footnote:
I was aware that the pandemic affected the handloom industry quite adversely. It was eye-opener to read an article on the subject in Better India website.
I quote:
 India has a vast handloom sector employing some 43.31 lakh weavers. It’s the second-largest employment sector after agriculture. Until the 2011 census, this sector employed more than 63 lakh people, nearly 87 per cent of whom reside in villages, with women forming around 77 per cent of the workforce, hardly making Rs 50 a day.

As the sector doesn’t fall into the essential services category, their plight doesn’t attract media coverage. Even in the current pandemic, the hardship of farmers, daily wagers, construction workers gets media attention but not the predicament of the handloom sector. Because of this, they are mostly dependent on the Master craftsmen who hire them on a contract basis, the weaver’s cluster societies employing them or the fashion designers who use natural handloom fabric. (There is more to read!)

Raji Narayan, a dear friend of ours, arranges exhibitions of handloom products as a part of the Crafts Council. I believe that the weavers participate directly.

Anita, another dear friend, works with weavers in India and imports their products to sell in the  USA. It was nice to know that she directly works with the weavers!

I am sure there will be  more such stories of  many organisations and notable people getting involved. I do have some worries . The  products are expensive, however I am not very clear about the return policy!

Technology has surely made the individual weaver poor. It has been a double edged sword. The claim is that  benefits will  be in the long term!

The handloom products we saw are certainly for the better off and surely not for the poor.  My hope is that the middlemen are not too greedy. 
Good news is that the mass produced products are more affordable as we see a change in clothes worn especially by the young all across, at all levels of our society. 








Comments

Chandramouli . said…
Good write up on a neglected sector of traditional skill based
economy. I bet this is the situation in all other parts of BharatMaata- in cotton, silk and khadi.
Savitha said…
Very nicely explained uncle 👌👌
Sivaraj said…
Enjoyed reading. Yes Uncle, a good collection for a Coffee Table Book.
Ahalya said…
Nice to know how they do it. Very intricate designs r done .They are not paid well for their art..
Kalavathi said…
Nice. Yes i had been to Varanasi 4years ago and also visited the weaver's factory and bought one sari also
Vidya said…
You both seem to be having a ball 🤗🤗
Shanthi Srikanth. said…
Nice write up and pics , particularly the quintessential gallis of Varanasi, the weavers with their paraphernalia, and of course, the distinguished visitors!
The weaver's plight must be a sad one with loss of domestic demand, cancellation of export orders running into several thousand crores. I read about several hundreds of them having been forced to shut shop and sell fruits and vegetables to eke out a living during the pandemic.
Looking forward to more stories.
Ramamani Nagaraj said…
Good write up. Ur interest in exploring is very laudable. When going through ur story I felt that I am also in benares. Thank u for sharing🙏🙏
Appegowda Prasanna said…
ಒಂದು ಒಳ್ಳೆಯ ಬರಹ ಮತ್ತು ಕೈಮೊಗ್ಗದ ಒಳ ಇರಹುಗಲನ್ನು ತಿಳಿಸುವಂತಿದೆ👏👍✅
(A good write up. Explains the inner working of the Handloom industry. )
Srikanth Rao said…
Did you visit Saranath? A big show room is there. Modi Govt has created a job for women and they have formed a society. Soceity sells the items at reasonable rate.
Ranganath said…
Great blog, Nidhi mama. I hope the rest of the visit was an equal success!
Keshi said…
Interesting read about weavers.
It is surprising to see they are
paid a mere Rs 50/ a day.
Even the most ordinary construction laborer earns Rs 100/ a day.
Col. Prasanna said…
I feel you should send the blog to the PM. I am sure he will do something. It is his constituency.
Malthi Venkatesh said…
A good write up. Enjoyed reading it. Loved the photographs especially the gullies of Varanasi.
Jayanthi Shankar said…
Very nice, enjoyed reading it.
Rohini said…
Nice! They work in such small spaces and doesn’t seem to be much light either!
Unknown said…
Interesting write up.
Nagaraj said…
It is very nice. Hope you had chance to see other places around. Kashi vishwanath temple, Ayodhya, many more development work in progress by Yogi Modi combination. Varanasi old vs new what changes you can see
R Narayan Prasad. said…
The blog began well.
we got left behind and lost ourselves in a festooned alley. Did the weavers at least benefit from your visit?!
Avinash Kagalwala said…
Meera’s brothers having similar weaving factory at Surat udhna. They have to take care of workers from family marriage to sickness. They are paid based on quality and output.
PVR Rao said…
Good read
Bina said…
Very nice 👌
Shobana said…
Nice story Nidhi. Sad though about the meager wages of the weavers who produce such intricate and beautiful saris. Will look forward to seeing Tara wear her purchase when we are next in India..hopefully this winter.
Bala Sridharan . said…
Very well articulated Sri 👍
prasan said…
I saw this blog after the one about the boat trip. Not that it matters, but my comments might have been different. The blog is quite interesting. Was there any objective in you two couples making this trip -- like, shopping for someone's wedding ?!! You could have, perhaps, given us some idea of the price range of these beautiful sarees. Anyway, a good blog. And I'm sure you guys have enjoyed yourselves.
Alka Mathur said…
Srinidhi my friend Kavya has devoted her life for these artisans. Her Instagram handle crazy feet shows her efforts to promote all these handloom craftsmen

https://instagram.com/crazyfeetkavya?utm_medium=copy_link
Shakku said…
Enjoyed yr pic taking skill and short write up. Plight of weavers and helpers saddens me immensely. Doesn't it hurt the conscience of middlemen and sellers. Pray the state govt, the rich business community and general public take the responsibility of publicizing their living and working condition if this art has to prosper in the future.

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