Varanasi trip. Kashi Vishwanath Temple early morning Pooja. For me it is very personal!

 I thought I had not heard it right, but yes, we had to be ready by 2.15 next morning. Our escort had wisely chosen a less crowded and much cooler time, for the 3.30 am Mangalarathi. I have walked barefoot on granite paved paths in the hot sun at many temples as an youngster. I don't think I could do it now!

Having reached early, we waited.  After a security check, our escort took us past a  covered gate. We waited again and finally we were on our way. It was dark and I didn’t realise that we had walked along a mosque.  We stopped to remove our footwear as we neared a large enclosure and walked barefoot. The Shiva temple was in the middle. As photography is not allowed, we had left our phones in the car. Even  combs are not permitted!

We moved, a bit slowly, and reached one of the entrances  of the small temple. Vatsala and Tara sat down in front, in Padmasana, facing the door, with a full view of the inner sanctum. Raghu and I, as super seniors, occupied a bench right close, also with a full view of the the Linga, which was installed at a lower level. Timing was perfect as the pooja started immediately.

This was the first full Pooja of Lord Shiva I watched. It was performed with a lot dedication and precision. One of the priests looked my age! Could be even more!  The sound of chanting of mantras filled the small temple and resonated all across. It was a memorable spiritual experience. 

I looked around briefly and noticed the quadrangle was not crowded.  A large tree, surely many years old, added beauty to the surroundings. After the pooja, flowers were distributed to the devotees. Raghu was happy to receive a garland. We then stepped into the temple to offer our individual prayers and exited from a different door. It was indeed a unique experience and I felt fortunate to experience it. 

We saw many devotees waiting patiently in a queue as we came out. As is customary, we sat down in one of the mantaps built along the outer peripheral wall. It gave us an opportunity to also see the new corridor and the constructions around it. All built in a grand scale and style. 

 The corridor is almost ready and the infrastructure is amazing. The area is very clean! As no pictures were allowed, I borrowed a few which illustrates the recent reconstruction. Also a few pictures of  the destruction required to create a larger space around the temple. 

Frankly I was totally ignorant about the earlier destructions of the temple by invaders.  Varanasi; is one of the world's oldest continually inhabited cities. The Kashi Vishwanath Temple was destroyed and rebuilt three (?) times.

 I was equally surprised to see the mosque next to the temple. It is cardonned off, but is still intact. A small entrance is provided for the devout to walk in to offer their prayers. I first thought it as an indication, an acceptance of today's need. A proof of  tolerance of each others' religion. It is evident in the armed forces, and I have seen a mosque and temple next to each other in Bengaluru. However, I read there is a litigation in the courts, to get possession of the space and build a temple in its place. 

Anyway, I am not advocating anything here in my blog, I am a total ASS (Autistic Symptoms Sometimes) when it concerns religion. My faith is very personal and neither can I convert nor can I be a part of the flock and preach or act.  As a kid, I used to get scolded for my ways. It is too late to change now. Anyway I have found a new god in golf! 

A cladding of gold sheets is in progress

Many houses had to go to make room for the corridor

To me,ignorant of Kashi history, it was surprise to see a mosque close by. 

An earlier picture of the temple

I had heard that visiting Kashi was a spiritual experience and a test of our faith at the same time. It is very true!

Sachitanand had asked in reply to my earlier blog:

Srinidhi, I have visited Varanasi in the Sixties, Eighties and at the turn of the Century. Each time I was terribly disappointed by the squalor of the ghats and the rapacious panda system at Kashi Viswanath temple, not to speak of the filth in the Ganga.

Recently  I  have been hearing glowing accounts of the wonderful transformation. rendered by the Modi - Yogi  duo.

Since this is your first visit to the age-old city, you may not be able to personally compare with what it was like in the recent past.  However, I would like to know frankly from you whether all the tributes paid  to the duo regarding the refurbishing of Varanasi and its environs are mere propaganda or actual fact.

Can you, for example, move around today in the Kasi Viswanath temple without your feet getting stuck in cow dung and being waylaid by pandas ? Have they instituted a system of darshan a la Tirupathi 

My reply:

Our visit was very different. 

We had a VIP experience as we accompanied Lt. Gen Raghunath, AMC, Retired. Army Medical Corps took very good care of their retired senior and us as his family. Beyond compare. 

In Kashi and specially in the temple there was no squalor I expected to see. 

There was no chaos or hustle anywhere. The devotees were very disciplined.